Superior Barn Equipment.

At one time located in Fergus ON, Superior Barn Equipment was quite a manufacturer of Barn and shop goods. I came across their products while looking for a new stool for my workbench. I was looking for something like the Toledo Stool, but hopefully made in Canada. I cannot find to much info on the web regarding the company and its history. Perhaps some further digging and a later post in is order. You can tell that they were quite proud of the equipment, as looking at the stool, almost every single piece of metal or wood is stamped "The Superior Way". The stool has some great adjustable option (leg height and back) and fits a tall guy like myself perfect all while providing back support for those long evening at the bench doing some leather work. I was able to dig up a catalog from possibly 1915, it is from the Toronto Library. It has some great pictures and drawings. I am loving the "Made in Canada by Canadians" page from the Catalog, Its great to see that buying local was an issue back then as well. Also I found that the Wellington County Museum has a great archive of photos of their stools and chairs. They really are nice products, so please stay tuned for hopefully some more history of this company and its products. If you have any info you can provide shoot me a email or leave a comment.

Toronto Library Online "Superior Barn Equipment" Catalog.
Wellington County Photos. (scroll to bottom for pics)

My New Stool.

Field Trip: Blacklock Longboards.

What do you get when you mix a artist and graphic designer, who also owns and operates a tree farm, and has a love for longboards and skimboarding? You get Blacklock Longboards. Based in Norfolk County Ontario, Craftsman and Farmer Paul-Britman Rapai is into his third year of building longboards under the name Blacklock Longboards. Finding time to build during the Winter months while his 200 acre tree farm is resting. Paul starting building decks in 2005 as gifts for family and friends. Through 2006-2009 Paul laid the foundation for his reputation through word of mouth and selling to a few stores. Soon after Blacklock was started and production stepped up, as well as quality and design. 

Paul-Britman Rapai.

I recently had the opportunity to visit Paul and his property to hang out and to get a hands on tour of his shop and to see the process on how these decks are made. I arrived at their home earlier then expected and as I stepped out of my car I was greeted by Heather, Paul's partner in crime, Paul's Father, and the youngest Rapai; Heather and Paul's son Garyson. Paul was out in the field, marking trees to be sold in the coming weeks, and shortly came rolling up in his dusty pick up.

After a quick break and some introductions we were off to the shop to take a look at some of his completed decks and to see his set up. The shop is tucked in the back end of a large two level barn. The barn stores the typical tractors and other farm equipment as well as the stacks of wood for the longboards. The wood that Paul uses for the decks are felled and milled from his farm, as well as other locally sourced lumber. As we crack the door of the brightly lit shop, it had the unmistakably wonderful smell of cut lumber. I don't think one could ever tire of that smell, its so delightful. The shop is filled with grand work benches, and quite a array of power tools to help transform thin strips of wood into ride-able works of art. Laying across most of the workbenches were the finished glossy planks of pure handcrafted goodness. Paul showed me some of the new designs that he is debuting this year. The intricate "spotted" design is quite striking, using rich dark woods to speckle the light colour of the Ash base. As well, Paul has constructed new tapered stripped decks, some looking like backgammon boards and others looking like the Hot rod flames of the 50's. His third new design is the wicked "rustic" deck that uses wood that has gnarly knots and really nice unique "flaws" to it. While they are structurally sound these decks really possess that "backwoods" appeal to the rider looking for that.

 

We stepped out of the shop and back to their home to take a look at Blacklock's blank decks. Paul's Blanks are not just graphic-less decks that you might think with regular deck, they are finished decks that need there shape cut out. These are for people daring enough to design there own longboard. Picking "your" deck is no easy task when faced with the beautiful rich colours and grains of wood and the fact that the silkscreened logos are all unique colour-ways as well. It took me 15 min, but I thankfully narrowed it down to two, a cherry and walnut pin-stripe and a walnut and oak striped. I finality decided on the Walnut and oak blank. I am a huge walnut fan, and it was also a touch wider for my size 13 feet. From there it was back out to the shop to cut the boards shape out. We modded Blacklock's pintail design to a wider version, utilizing the full 9" of the decks width. Paul effortlessly whips the blank through the bandsaw cutting the board within millimetres of his original pencil line. The board feels good and the shape is balanced. The next step is sanding the edges smooth, bringing the edges right up to the pencil line. Paul starts up the belt sander and shows me that you need to keep rocking it to eliminate flat spots. As I work the deck back and forth the belt sander chews through the wood like a hot knife in butter. Just as I finish cleaning up the edges Heather and Grayson pop around the corner and call us for Dinner.

 After an amazing dinner (Thank you so much Heather!!) and some great conversation around their dining room table, Paul asked if I would like anything stamped into the deck. Again another touch of personalization offered by Paul. Each deck is stamped with a serial number and "Blacklock", but he will also stamp your name, nickname, or anything. I of course got "Damn Yak", and boy it looks sharp. I also asked Paul if he would be so kind as to throw his "John Hancock" on there for me. The last step for us in finishing up the deck is sanding out the wheel wells. Paul has made a one of a kind jig to hold the deck at and specific angle to lean into the spindle sander.  Its was pretty rad to see perfectly angled wheel wells sanded into the deck in about 30 seconds. As we peel the masking tape on the board back I grin ear to ear, the final deck is simply amazing. All I need to do at home is round and seal the edges and its good to go. With our work in the shop finished Paul takes me on a truck ride around the farm, showing me their pond and rows of trees. Quite the operation he has set up, Working the land in the summer and building with what he grows in the winter.

Raw decks that need sealing

Blacklock longboards are unique, and while there are other longboard makers in the world, how many of them have their hand in the entire process, from felling to final sanding. Blacklock boards are just as functional as they are eye-catching, Paul told me he's been up to 65km on his skate. Every deck is completely different, different grains and different stripes. Paul only makes so many a year, because as a proud craftsmen, quality over quantity stands true. I really dig the fact that you don't necessarily need grip tape on the board, allowing you to look down and see the beauty of your board with every push. With the skate seasons here in Ontario fast approaching, you might want to head over to Blacklock's website and scoop up your new summer ride. He just put up all of this seasons new designs and stock, and they do go quick. I just want to thank Paul and Heather for their hospitality and kindness during my visit. I was truly made to feel comfortable in their home and had such a great time during my visit. It really great to see such fresh, handmade, one of a kind products coming from Canada, let alone just a couple hours away from my home. If you have any questions about the boards or the process please contact Paul directly through Blacklock's website.

Laying masking tape to draw the shape on my new deck.

Modding the shape to accommodate the width.

Ready to cut out.

Paul ripping the board through the band-saw.

Sanding the edges square.

Sanding the wheel wells with custom jig.

All done, Tape comes off.

Bear Mountain Boat Shop - Nick Offerman Build-up DVD.

If you are a fan of the series "Parks and Recreation", you most definitely like the "man of all men" Ron Swanson. Sporting his stellar mustache and love of breakfast food, and carpentry, he steals the show with his no-nonsense attitude on everything. The Actor who portrays "Ron" is Nick Offerman, a comedian, and quite a real carpenter. Working with friends under the company "Offerman Woodshop", the group build marvelous pieces of wood creations. A few years back while Nicks wife was working in NYC on Broadway, he made his way up to Peterborough to Bear Mountain Boat Shop to purchase plans and materials to construct a couple of canoes. The two groups decided to make a DVD to be a companion piece to the famous canoe makers book "Canoecraft".  Here are some clips to tickle your fancy, but head over to Bear Mountain's website to grab the whole step by step video. Nick has a certain way of talking that makes you feel really comfortable and confident that you could, with no history in woodworking build a canoe, and beautiful one at that.

Estwing Hammer Rebuild.

I was asked by my Sister-in-law about a month ago to take on a task.  As she reached into her tool box she pulled out a beat up, rotted, grip less 16 oz. Estwing leather gripped claw hammer.  "This was my Dad's", My brother's remark was "Just tell her to get a new one!". As I put my hand up to my brother I ask what she want me to do, her reply " rebuild the grip, he had it for I don't know how many years and I would like to use it again." And so one of my favorite builds to date began.  I have made many leather gripped knives before, and have build some amazing things out of leather in the past 6 years, but none of this caliber, none that have been so sentimental that's for sure. And to see the handle come out of the massive stack of leather was incredible. No power tools were used, it was completely done by hand with no glue in between the stacks of leather. Instead of going into huge detail about the ins and outs, I will just put some comments down under the picture as to whats going on. I did used Spar Varnish on the grip, as raw leather (as beautiful as it would be) my Sister-in-law will actually be using this hammer in all conditions and to maximize the leathers durability I varnished it.  There must be a reason to it, as Estwing varnishes theirs as you can see on the 20 oz claw hammer I was using as reference.

The original I was handed, missing a few pieces, about 50 years old.

After removing end, and sliding over 40 stacks of leather.

Freshly peened rivets, snug tight.

After 20 min of cutting with Olfa knife, using my hammer as guide.

Final rough cut.

After some intense 120 grit sanding.

Final raw hammer, after 400 grit sanding.

Final raw hammer.

About to varnish, this leather was thirsty.

After eight coats of varnish.

Finished, ready to be passed down for many more generations.

Horned Crook Knife.

 

 

While cleaning up my office this past week I stumbled on to a crook knife I bought myself about 3 years ago. I had it wrapped in a rag tucked in a box with random junk. I bought it at a rummage sale for no more that $5, the fellow had about 3 of them all in rough shape. This one was the only one usable, handle firmly fixed, and blade somewhat sharp. It looks to be handmade from a possible broken kitchen knife, as the marks are from Sheffield, England, as popular as bushcraft is I don't think that they were commercial crook knifes with cattle horn handles from the turn of the century!

The makers mark is reads "J (or) I.Wilson, Sycamore St. Sheffield England", then their trademark peppercorn and diamond stamp. Doing a quick google search of the stamp, The company was started by Thomas Wilson as a general cutlery maker in 1750. After Thomas' death, his son John took over until his death in 1851. Apparently by the 19th century the peppercorn and diamond trademark was one of the most popular and well known trademarks of the cutlery industry. While searching I came across this image of a auction of a 6 pack of skinning knives. On the package you can clearly see the peppercorn mark and a bit of history of the company

The horn handle is very comfortable and the crook is not to deep, no spoon making with this one. Even without a sharpen, it whisks wood quite easy, and the very old rivets that connect blade and handle hold strong.

I need to get my butt in gear and sharpen this knife up and take it for a spin, maybe hammer out a paddle finally. Any readers dabbled with crook knives? And tips or ticks you can share?

Collapsible Buck Saw Bag.

 

 

A while back I made a collapsible buck saw.  I needed a bag to tote it around safely and to keep it clean.  I saw a similar design on the Ray Mears Woodlore site, and set to work from the images there.   It is a great idea, a holder for the saw and my axe all in one.  Being able to sling it over your back while you go foraging for wood, and then having your hands free while dragging wood back.  It worked quite well during our trip recently and I look forward to having to use this tough little bag again.  Go ahead, draw up some plans and make your own!

Collapsible Buck Saw.

Sometimes when camping using an axe is not always the best means of making smaller cuts of wood for the fire.  One option is to just burn the longer pieces of lumber in half, but the other option is a buck saw.  A gnarly looking saw that quickly eats wood with little effort.  Now I know there are nice small collapsible bucksaws on the market, but in about a hour you could make your own.  There are plans readily available on the internet, and can be easily made to fit any size of blade.  When I made mine I chose a 24" blade, they average about $6.  The wood I chose was Maple, strong, light and beautiful.  I altered the plans below to fit the 24" blade and when taught provides decent tension on the blade and makes a sturdy saw.  The tension is adjusted by the windlass, a string that you wind around a stick and gets held in place as it rests on the cross member.  I first made a saw out of oak, unfortunately I wasn't able to get the tension I wanted on the blade do to the blade attachment holes being in the wrong place.  I sacrificed this saw to experiment with what it needed to get that tension.  After figuring out what I needed and remaking the maple one, I shaped and sanded to 400 grit.  The saw then got a good soaking of Tung oil and let sat for 2 hours or so in the sun. The handles are buttery smooth and oh so pretty! So if you have a hour to spare and couple tools you can make yourself a awesome collapsible buck saw for about 16 bucks (if you don't have wood lying around).  I will do a posting the carrying case when I complete it. Stay tuned!


Tools I used:

- Miter saw
- 1/4" wood chisel
- Drill w/ assorted drill bits
- Wooden mallet
- Rasp file

Other consumables and materials:

- 120, 150, 400 grit sandpaper
- Tung oil
- 550 Para-cord
- Brass machine screws, washers, and wing-nuts.


LINK TO THE SAW PLANS

Gränsfors Bruks AB

When heading out on a canoe trip or backpacking trip a fine trustworthy companion is a Gränsfors Bruks axe. Gränsfors Bruks is a small Swedish familiy operated company formed in 1902. Known worldwide for their finely crafted axes that have been stripped of paint, labels and extra hardware. These axes have been showcased on the very popular TV series "Bushcraft" by Ray Mears and touted by the man himself. The head are proudly marked with the makers initals, some people will only but items made by certain people. I have been carrying the "Small FOrest Axe" on my adventures for about 5 years now, and everyone whom I have let try it (FYI - quickest way to loose a friend is to let them use your axe or knife) has been wickedly impressed. It cuts through wood like a razor blade. It really is incredible! So if you are in the market for a new axe, I suggest you go out to your local Lee Valley store or Canadian Outdoor Equipment and pick one that suits your needs.


VIDEO - Ray Mears - Choosing and Using an Axe.

"Woodcraft & Camping" - Bernard S. Mason

Anyone looking for a classic book with small and large projects to make at camp, this really is the book for you. I found this book at a thrift store about 7 years ago, and has been one of my go to books for ideas for easy project. Originally called "Woodcraft" and published in 1939, it was re-released as " Woodcraft & Camping" in 1974. At a thick 596 pages its is chalk full 'o' fun. It shows the outdoor enthusiast how to construct things ranging from wood whistles, bark containers, knives, eating utensils, even Indian head dresses. After a quick search Amazon has a couple for sale so does eBay (1st edition). I suggest you pick this book up, as the knowledge is timeless, and slightly different then the hundreds of survival/camping books out there.

Wanna Wanigan.

Wanigan an Ojibway word loosely translating to "kitchen" is debatable item in canoe camping. Some swear by them other swear at them. Growing up my Dad's Wanigan was a staple of our canoe trips. I remember it fondly, it was about 15" square, checker board drawn on top, a piece of seat belt strap as a tumpline. And most of all it was my seat in the canoe, dead centre. One year along the Saugeen river, seeing as the top of the box was slightly taller than the gunwale I lost my balance and toppled in the water, only to be swiftly grabbed one handed and dragged back to my seat by my Dad making sure I was still happy and laughing about the situation!.

Any way back to the purpose of the Wanigan. It is used to carry all of you crush-able kitchen wear. Pots, plates, utensils, and every other knik-knak that you would need in the kitchen are all neatly stored in this box and is easily accessed anytime with out opening packs etc. A lot of people draw boardgames on the lid and perhaps attach a cutting board to the bottom of the lid, making it a very functional piece of camp gear. Building them can be as simple or as ornate as you want, Some fiberglass the inside to make it somewhat watertight. Some people just a larger metal tin, or plastic tool box. I know some people are like "Why lug this massive wooden box and make a second trip on a long portage?". I will tell you why, when speed is not a part of your trip, when having a slower paced journey, when camp craft, camp baking, or lay over days are part of you trip . You have a flat surface as soon as you reach camp, and you always have a seat along the portage and at camp. Wanigans are usually carried by a tumpline, but people attach shoulder strap, or even by old pack frames and carry them with that. All great ideas, just like the Wanigan itself is. I think that they will increasing become more popular among the people looking to take camping back to its basics, even though your bringing more?

I think that building a Wanigan is going to be one of my summer projects. It will be nice to have certain items in one spot, that does not require unpacking when the trip is over. I will definitely post again regarding the build when it happens.

Bill Mason's small Wanigan from "Waterwalker".

Bill Mason's Tin Box Wanigan also from "Waterwalker".


A side access Wanigan. (site)


Contoured to fit hull of canoe.


A user made pine Wanigan, Beautiful!. (site)